Six weeks of school holidays were almost up. On the very last day, we ventured across to Fife. The plan? A trip to Bowhouse, on the outskirts of St. Monans, for one of their ‘Market Weekends’. (More on that in a moment, as it’s a delightful outing from Edinburgh.) What happened? The sun came out, which meant only one thing: we had to make the most of it. Enter, a particularly picturesque stretch of the Fife Coastal Path.
We’ll start with Bowhouse. If you love good grub, you’ll (probably) love Bowhouse. We started by watching one of their butchery demonstrations. As a nation, we’ve become accustomed to seeing particular cuts of meat on menus and in supermarkets – yet here, every single part of the animal had a place on the table. We were told which knives were needed to carve each bit of the carcass, and given ideas for different dishes in which each cut of meat could be used.
Next on our agenda was a potter round the stalls, which sold everything from fruit and vegetables to jams, chocolates and gins. We sampled a few cheeses, but (foolishly) hadn’t brought a cooler bag with us – sadly, there was no chance a cheese was going to survive an afternoon in a warm car. If you’re on the hunt for gifts, there were lots of beautiful crafts available too.
Out the back, you’ll find their street food area. After much deliberation, we decided to share a portion of tacos from The Fat Flamingo before venturing over to their on-site café, Baern. Whether I’d make the ninety-minute journey for the sole purpose of going to Bowhouse again remains to be seen, but if you’re in the East Neuk of Fife it’s well worth stopping by.
We then drove into St. Monans, found a spot to park, and meandered down to the harbour. The East Neuk of Fife (also referred to simply as the East Neuk) is famed for its picturesque fishing villages and scenic coastline. Although the region’s fishing industry has declined, the East Neuk still has a reputation for excellent seafood. (If you like shellfish, The Lobster Pot in Crail, a village further east, is frequently cited as a go-to spot for this).
We wandered along Mid Shore and up Forth Street (below) to pick up the Fife Coastal Path.
At the end of Rose Street, a narrow tarmac path winds its way past St. Monans Tidal Pool (below) and towards St. Monans Windmill.
We spotted a couple of brave people taking a dip. I am only willing to swim in the sea if it is the temperature of a warm bath – not the case in Scotland, even if the sunshine and blue skies might suggest otherwise.
You could be forgiven for thinking St. Monans is, and always has been, a sleepy, seaside village. Rewind a couple of hundred years to the 1770s, though, and you’ll discover another side to it. St. Monans Windmill (above) sat at the heart of St. Monans Saltpans. Informative signs told us that abundant coal supplies and direct shipping routes made the Forth Basin the heart of Scotland’s salt industry for eight hundred years. As the industrial production methods used in Scotland tended to retain impurities, they gradually declined in popularity and consumer preference shifted towards sun-evaporated salt from the Bay of Biscay.
Only the foundations of the pan houses remain (above), and what little information there is about them has been gleaned from archaeological and documentary evidence from modern-day salt works. Estimates suggest six to eight tons of coal were needed to produce one ton of salt. Today, it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
We continued along the Fife Coastal Path, enjoying the sunshine and views out to sea. There was a bench by the path, but any thought of putting our feet up went out of our minds when we read the sign attached to it!
Before long, Pittenweem Tidal Pool came into view. If you’re braver than me and fancy taking the plunge, suitable water shoes are recommended as it is rocky underfoot.
When we rounded the bend, Pittenweem itself came into view.
Scotland has oodles of picturesque harbours and waterfronts, but Pittenweem might just be one of my favourites.
After a wander round the harbour, we retraced our steps along the Fife Coastal Path to return to St. Monans. As it was such a nice day, we detoured via Elie on our way home. If you like sandy beaches – and who doesn’t? – you’re in for a treat, for there are two beautiful beaches here. A walk along Ruby Bay and Elie Beach and an ice-cold Coke was the perfect way to end the holidays.
