Are you starting this stage wondering whether the views at Col de Balme actually justify the climb? They do. This is where you cross back into France permanently, hit one of the best summit viewpoints on the entire circuit, and descend into the Chamonix valley for the final stretch. Here’s exactly what to expect.
What This Stage Actually Involves
Stage 8 covers roughly 14 kilometers from Col de la Forclaz (1,526m) in Switzerland to Argentière (1,252m) in France, crossing the border at Col de Balme (2,191m). You gain 665m of elevation, lose 940m, and walk for 4 to 5 hours at a steady pace. Moderate difficulty — no scrambling, no exposure — but the ridge to Col de Balme demands respect in poor weather.
Three distinct sections define the day: a shaded forest climb from Col de la Forclaz, an open ridge walk to the col, then a long descending traverse into the valley.
Stage 8 Route Data
| Data Point | Detail |
|---|---|
| Start | Col de la Forclaz, Switzerland (1,526m) |
| End | Argentière, France (1,252m) |
| Distance | ~14km (classic route via Vallorcine) |
| Ascent | 665m |
| Descent | 940m |
| Highest Point | Col de Balme (2,191m) |
| Walking Time | 4–5 hours |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Key Summit Facility | Refuge du Col de Balme |
The Forest Climb from Col de la Forclaz
The Hotel Col de la Forclaz sits right at the trailhead and is a fixture on TMB itineraries. If you slept elsewhere the night before, stop here for breakfast before setting off. The trail climbs steadily through the Forêt du Tronchey — shaded, well-marked, and manageable. You gain around 400m in the first 3km. No drama, no surprises.
The Open Ridge Section
Above the treeline the trail follows an exposed ridge toward the col. In clear conditions you get views back toward the Trient glacier and forward toward the Mont Blanc massif. In afternoon storms — which are common in July and August — this section turns unpleasant fast. The exposure is real and the weather moves in quickly. Leave early. This is not optional advice.
Col de Balme: The Stage’s Entire Point
At 2,191m, Col de Balme marks the France-Switzerland border. It’s not the TMB’s highest point — Col des Fours at 2,665m cleared that bar several stages ago — but it might have the best view-to-effort ratio on the whole circuit.
From the col, you’re looking almost directly at the Mont Blanc massif. The Argentière glacier fills the valley to your southwest. Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguille Verte dominate the skyline. On a clear morning, Mont Blanc’s summit rises above the ridgeline. After days of forest paths, valley sections, and the relentless ups and downs of earlier stages, this is the reward the trail has been building toward.
The Refuge du Col de Balme is a working mountain refuge open mid-June through late September. It serves hot soup, sandwiches, and cold drinks. It stamps your TMB passport. The building has operated at this col since 1930 and has seen every combination of weather the Alps can generate. Sit on the terrace. Take off your pack. Eat something. You’ve just crossed back into France with one or two stages remaining. That warrants a full stop, not a five-minute photo pause.
On a weekday morning in early September you might have the terrace to yourself. In late July peak weeks, day hikers from Chamonix arrive from the other side by late morning and the col fills quickly. Get there early and the place is yours.
The Detail Most Hikers Miss
The final 200 meters of ascent to the col runs on loose, chalky trail that turns genuinely slippery after rain. After any recent precipitation, deploy your trekking poles here even if you’ve had them stowed all morning. One misstep on wet chalk produces a fast, undignified slide. Not dangerous — just painful and preventable.
Weather Window at Col de Balme
The col faces northwest-to-southwest and catches afternoon thunderstorms reliably throughout summer. The Chamonix valley heats up and generates convective storms by early afternoon on most July and August days. Leave Col de la Forclaz by 7am. Be at the col by 10am. Clear skies in most summer conditions. If you leave after 9am you’re gambling on both the view and your safety on an exposed ridge. The formula is simple — just follow it.
Descent Options: Vallorcine vs. Direct to Le Tour
Two routes exist from Col de Balme down to Argentière. Most official TMB itineraries send you via Vallorcine. The direct descent to Le Tour is shorter. Here’s the honest comparison:
| Factor | Via Vallorcine (classic TMB) | Direct descent to Le Tour |
|---|---|---|
| Distance to Argentière | ~8km from col | ~6km from col |
| Terrain type | Forest paths, pastures, village streets | Open ski pistes (off-season) |
| Scenery quality | High — varied alpine landscape | Medium — ski infrastructure visible |
| Facilities en route | Vallorcine: bakery, grocery, train station | Le Tour chairlift (summer only, paid) |
| Emergency bailout | Yes — Mont Blanc Express at Vallorcine | Chairlift only, limited operating hours |
| Verdict | Take this route | Only if genuinely racing daylight |
The Vallorcine route wins, and it’s not close. The village has a bakery and a small grocery store — relevant when your snack supply has run out after the col. More importantly, the Mont Blanc Express train station at Vallorcine is a genuine bailout option if your legs are done. You can reach Argentière or Chamonix in minutes. That flexibility is worth the extra 2km on any tired-leg day.
The direct descent to Le Tour shaves roughly 40 to 45 minutes. It crosses off-season ski pistes that look exactly like ski pistes in summer. The chairlift operates limited hours and costs money. There are no meaningful advantages for a TMB hiker who isn’t in a genuine time emergency. Take Vallorcine.
Where to Sleep in Argentière
Is Argentière worth choosing over Chamonix?
Yes. Argentière sits 8km north of Chamonix center and runs 15 to 25% cheaper on accommodation. It’s quieter, more authentically alpine, and you’re already there after the descent. Chamonix makes sense if you have specific logistics — gear resupply, a large outdoor equipment shop visit, or meeting someone. Otherwise you’re paying a premium for tourist infrastructure you don’t need on a rest night deep in a long-distance hike.
What does accommodation in Argentière actually cost?
The village has around a dozen options for TMB hikers ranging from dorm gîtes to small hotels. Dorm beds in gîtes typically run €35–45 per night; private rooms €80–110. Most gîtes offer half-board packages — dinner plus breakfast — for €65–80 total, which is worth taking when you’re too tired to think about restaurants and shopping. Book 2 to 3 weeks ahead for July and August dates. Argentière fills completely in peak season and doesn’t have the overflow bed capacity that Chamonix does.
The Gîtes de France directory lists all accredited options in Argentière with current availability and nightly rates. The official TMB booking platform (available through the TMB Association website) also aggregates valley-wide options. Both are more reliable than generic booking sites for gîte-style accommodation.
Is a rest day in Argentière worth building in?
If this is your first TMB on a 10 to 11 day itinerary, a half-day rest here makes physical sense. You’re at the two-thirds mark. The demanding early stages — Col du Bonhomme, the Italian valley crossings, the Courmayeur sections — are behind you. A half-day in Argentière means you arrive at Chamonix on the final stage feeling strong rather than grinding across the finish line on empty legs. The Argentière glacier view from the village requires zero effort and is genuinely worth 30 minutes of sitting and looking. Consider it earned recovery time.
Three Mistakes That Ruin This Stage
- Starting after 9am. Afternoon thunderstorms hit the Col de Balme ridge with high reliability throughout summer. This isn’t generic mountain weather caution — it’s specific to how the Chamonix valley heats up and generates convective storms by early afternoon in July and August. Leave Col de la Forclaz by 7am. The views reward early starters and the weather punishes late ones, sometimes dangerously so on an exposed ridge at 2,100m.
- Taking the direct Le Tour descent to save time. The Vallorcine variant adds 2km and roughly 40 minutes. You get better scenery, a real grocery stop, and a train station bailout in exchange. The faster route goes across empty ski pistes and has no real advantages for a standard TMB hiker. The 40 minutes saved are not worth the downgrade.
- Pushing all the way through to Chamonix center. Most hikers who skip Argentière do it because they feel the finish is close. But the final stage still exists. Arriving exhausted in Chamonix to pay €120 or more for a bed you’ll sleep straight through is not the triumphant near-finish it sounds like. Stop in Argentière, rest properly, and complete the TMB on good legs.
How Stage 8 Fits the Full TMB Arc
This is the transition stage. Switzerland ends here. Col de Balme is the last major col on the standard TMB itinerary. What follows is Chamonix valley walking and forest paths back to Les Houches. Stage 8 delivers the final summit moment before the circuit closes — and the Col de Balme view earns its reputation on every clear morning. Cross the border, take the time at the top, and descend knowing the hard work is done.
- Stage highlight: Col de Balme panorama — Mont Blanc, Argentière glacier, Aiguille Verte in one frame
- Critical route decision: Descent via Vallorcine (classic TMB) beats Le Tour direct on scenery, facilities, and flexibility
- Biggest avoidable mistake: Late start; afternoon weather on the col ridge is predictable and preventable
- Best overnight: Argentière village — 15–25% cheaper than Chamonix, 8km closer to the col, quieter
- Stage difficulty: Moderate — steady forested climb, exposed ridge to col, long descent, no technical terrain
- Overall verdict: One of the stronger days on the TMB. The col delivers every time the weather cooperates.